open the curtains

and take a look out the window if you want to know what the weather's like


Coastlining 20: St Ives – Lelant

Date: Friday 6th June 2014     Distance walked: 5.5 miles     Total distance: 184 miles

2014.06.06 (6) St Ives

St Ives harbour from Pedn Olva

St Ives divides opinion in Cornwall. People love it, people hate it. It’s one of the most well-known and well-visited towns in the county and in addition to its reputation for being one of the top tourist destinations in the UK it’s also known for being a bit arty thanks to a bunch of early twentieth-century artists who made this their home and made it famous for their modernist and abstract approaches to their craft. Artists still come here, live here, exhibit here. You hear the phrase quality of light brandished in reference to this place Continue reading



Lost Mine Found

entrance to Tate St Ives [c] J Hughes 2008

Standing inside the amphitheatrical atrium of Tate St Ives feels like being inside the heart of a giant seashell. The entrance path whorls up concentrically from the waterfront.  Look up – here’s a siphon hole to the sky.  Framed by the clean Art Deco lines is the expanse of Porthmeor Beach, devoid of tourists, a smattering of surfers catching the last warmth of the autumnal Atlantic waves.  Listen – here’s the sea sound reverberated, amplified, almost abstracted to the resonant shush of a conch held to the ear.  Today I am a hermit crab, scuttling around in this shell that’s far too big for me, scavenging on the dead meat of art and place. Continue reading


Coastlining 19: Pendeen – St Ives

Date: Thursday 5th June 2014     Distance walked: 14 miles     Total distance: 178.5 miles


Down into a stream-cut cleft and over the first footbridge of many, crossing a cascading rock-and-plant-filled rill cutting down from the fields and Penwith moors above me and dropping away to my left and down into Portheras Cove. Once up and out there was a view of what was to be the lay of the land for the day: Gurnard’s Head the furthest visible point of land sticking out into the sea in the distance beyond the nearer bulkhead of Chypraze Cliff. I was heading east, and will be from here on in for the best part of the north coast. Fourteen miles of what was promised to be part of the most severe and least populated stretch of the Cornish coastline lay between me and my destination of St Ives. Continue reading